Back at the Pole

It's that time of year again. After a whirlwind of Redeployment Meetings (8 of them in 3 days) at McMurdo, I'm back at the South Pole to help conduct the meetings there. Janice from the Christchurch Travel office is here as well and we'll both be helping South Pole do-everything-extraordinaire Katie to put on the meetings here. I like it at Pole, but I don't think I would like to be here for a whole season. Three days is enough!

Planning Redeployment

It's hard to believe, but the first Redeployment Meetings are
less than a month away. It seems like we just got here, and
now I'm planning not only my escape from the frozen south,
but the departure of 1000 or so other individuals as well.
Redeployment Meetings basically are a ninety minute session
describing what to expect when departing McMurdo and how
to fill out the paperwork necessary to do so. We have to hold
some people's hands more than others. Some folks that have
been coming down for years sometimes need the most help
with their paperwork, while others that are brand new can
make it through like a champ. My first step of the process
happened this week when I meeting space in the Galley in
Building 155. The Galley is the main room where everyone
eats, but it is also the largest room on Station and as a result,
large gatherings happen here. It's my job to coordinate the
travel section of the presentation, but presentations will also
be made by Housing, Finance and Human Resources. I act as
a defacto Master of Ceremonies for the whole event. We will
be having eight of these meetings during a 3-4 day period at
McMurdo and then I will be making the three hour flight to the
South Pole to help conduct the meetings there. I'll be getting
some help both at McMurdo and Pole from Janice, who is a
member of the Travel team in Christchurch. She'll be a
valuable resource since she can answer a lot of the questions
that I might not know the answers to. So there you go. This
time next month, I should be wrapping up the McMurdo stage
of the presentations and planning my trip to South Pole Station.
It's going to be a very busy couple of months after the holidays.

SPoT

Back in the day, we used to have almost 350 missions every
season to the South Pole. One reason is because they were
building the new Station there. The other was because almost
every mission late in the season was a tanker mission. This
means that each LC-130 was literally a flying gas tank, taking
valuable fuel that the South Pole needed for its very survival.
Then, several years ago, the first South Pole Traverse (SPoT)
trudged it's way to the Pole, literally carving an ice and snow
road all the way to the Pole for about 1200 miles. Their main
mission is to haul fuel to the Pole. This trip replaces many
many flights that would take three hours to fly to Pole each
way. This year's first Traverse took exactly a month to get
there, but typically the trip isn't that long. It's pretty much the
ultimate road trip, but there aren't any convenience stores or
gas stations along the way. Just hours and hours and miles
and miles of nothing but snow and ice. The Traverse crew
have to spend a lot of time together, driving, cooking and
entertaining each other. Hopefully not driving each other
crazy! Now a second Traverse is on its way and should
arrive around New Year's. It's far from a busy "highway", but
is on it's becoming more and more so every year!

Business Trip to The South Pole

This week I got to spend a few days at the Amundsen–Scott
South Pole Station. The farthest spot south on the planet!
I was there to help Katie, the Station Suppor Supervisor
with the Pole employees' Redeployment Meetings. My
co-workers Leighton, Liz and I presented everything
necessary the employees needed to know so that they
can redeploy this time next month.


It had been two years since I had been to the Pole and
since my first visit four years ago, lots of changes have
occurred here. For the most part it was a major
construction zone. Now everything is finished and all
is running as planned. Also, the dome is now gone.
The dome was the centerpiece of the previous station
and it has since been dismantled. Where it sat there
is now a large open field of snow.


On my first visit in 2007, there were large pieces of
plywood where a much more functional dark gray
sheeting is now in place. The station as a whole is
pretty impressive.


We flew south from McMurdo for three hours in a LC-130
Hercules. I don't fly in these on the trip from Christchurch
to McMurdo and back, so it's kind of a treat, getting to fly
in a different type of aircraft. They're not really that
comfortable, but they're functional.


This is probably the smallest air passenger terminal I've
ever flown into or out of. It's actually more of a warming
shack in which one can stand out of the wind while waiting
for a flight.


Since I was staying for just a few nights, I got to stay in
the main station as opposed to the Summer Camp. The
Summer Camp is essentially a group of Jamesway tents
with berthing and limited facilities. The rooms in the
main station are small, but cozy and functional.
I didn't spend a lot of time in my room and I think that if
I was working here for a full season, I probably wouldn't
either since you really can't spread out, but it was pretty
comfortable nonetheless.


This is where my room was located looking at it from the
outside. I didn't have much of a view, just looking at
another wing of the station, but at least I could tell what
the weather was doing in the morning.


Katie is on the left and Leighton is on the right.
Leighton helped me with our Redeployment
Meetings in McMurdo and then we went south to
help Katie. It's her first season in her current
position and I don't know how she does it. At a
minimum she wears 8 different hats and works
an average of 14-16 hours a day, seven days a
week...ugh!



In several places in the station there are big television
screens that display information. This screen was displaying
the weather at the time. -14.6 seems cold but it was actually
pretty warm. Because it's so dry, one can stay outside for
quite a while if you're dressed appropriately. Even though
the station is physically at 9,301 feet, it feels like it is over
10,000 feet because of the barometric pressure at the Pole.


There are also flight schedules displayed throughout
the station.


I will never complain about the slowness of the internet
at McMurdo again. The internet availability at South
Pole relies solely on when satellites will be passing overhead.
As a result, there are only a few hours each day in which
someone can send email our browse the web. Even then,
it is pretty slow. I guess at one of the most remote places
on Earth, it's lucky they get this much connectivity.


Since there aren't a lot of computer or television options,
there are lots of other recreation opportunities including
this very large lounge with lots of books.


When the satellite is "up" there are lots of computers
in the computer room for people to send emails or
browse the internet.


This is one part of the Medical facility inside the station.
Very modern and from what I hear has good telemedicine
capabilities.


I bought postcards at the store and sent them out from
the Post Office here. Of all the time I've been coming down
to Antarctica, I think it's the first time I've ever sent post
cards!


There's only one laundry facility on station. I was very
jealous that the residents here get to use Tide as their
detergent. We get some crummy generic stuff at
McMurdo that eats your clothing if you use too much.


This is another small lounge that doubles as a library.
There are several of these scattered throughout the
station.


The craft room seemed a little spartan, but if you bring
your own stuff, there's lots of room to move around.


During the summer, freshies come in fairly regularly.
In the winter though, there aren't any flights from
February though almost November so they have to
grow their own. This top notch greenhouse is run by
Lane, who wintered at McMurdo with us a few years
ago. He told me that this time next month it will look
like a jungle in here!


When you work at a place where literally everything
outside is white, a splash of color certainly helps liven
things up. This is just one example of the bright colors.


We held a total of five Redeployment Meetings and three
of them were in this conference room. I thought that
almost everything at the station was much more modern
and usable that the counterparts at McMurdo. Sure,
they're newer, but much easier to use as well.


Since the station is one long building, there are
two long hallways that run the length of the
station. This is the second floor, looking from
one end to the other....way down there!



Comms keeps track of all radio communications between
Pole and the rest of the world, including planes landing
and taking off.



There's a pretty nice gym with lots of useful equipment.
Adjacent to this is a full-sized gymnasium where they were
playing volleyball.


The station is surrounded by nothing...miles and
miles of absolutely flat nothing! As far as the eye can
see.



I really liked the Galley. Even when it was full, it never
seemed crowded, unlike our galley in McMurdo. It was
also a nice place to relax and read, which I did several
times during my stay.


Outside is a very nice view of the Ceremonial Pole with
all of the flags of the original signatory nations of the
Antarctic Treaty.


However, a great view for any McMurdo-ite would be
of the REAL ICE CREAM. All we have is soft serve at
McMurdo.


Liz, Leighton and I got to take the time to take a stroll
around outside.


Of course I got my hero shots to go those from my other visits
at Pole, but this was my favorite from this visit.



This is the only place on Earth where no matter where
you stand, everything faces North!

Preparing for Redeployment Meetings

It's hard to believe, but Redeployment Meetings will
be starting next week. It seems like we just got here,
but the season is already sixty percent over. Even
though we still have eight weeks to go, they will go
by quickly since everyone will be so busy. All us folks
in Air Services will definitely be earning our paychecks
as we'll be processing all of the Raytheon and NANA
employees' travel requests. My friend and counterpart
in Christchurch, Leighton, will be coming down next
week to help with the meetings. In a twist from the
usual, it looks like I'll be going down to South Pole
Station for a few days to help get Katie started on their
redeployment procedures. This is Katie's first year in
this position and we'll be helping her get a footing on
what she needs to do. It should be interesting since
I've never spent the night at Pole before...only a
couple short day trips. In the meantime, I've got a
Powerpoint presentation to update for next week's
meetings...I better get busy!

MKB and VKB

We now have both Baslers here. MKB (in Red) and
VKB (in White). Both are operated by Kenn Borek Air
out of Canada and can land at smaller airfields and
colder weather. This is ideal for most of the Field
Camps where they will be flying this year. Right now
though, MKB is gearing up to take four flights of Polies
down to the South Pole Station to begin making the
transition from Winter to Summer seasons. Because the
Baslers can't carry much cargo, the folks going to Pole
on them will only be able to carry one bag on with them
that they will have to live out of until their bags
arrive on a LC-130 in a few weeks.

Transitions

Last "night" the South Pole closed for the season
and as a result, I am no longer needed in the Air
Services office from 6pm to 6am. All flight from
now on will be during the day. Day and Night are
still relative terms, since the first sunset
doesn't occur for another week or so. However,
it is definitely starting to feel like winter here
as my small red jacket has been abandoned for the
season and Big Red has made it's way into my
wardrobe. Over the next 24 hours I'll be moving
into "Day" mode and away from the "wandering the
station in the middle of the night" mode. Back
amongst the living.

The Masses

These are the files of each of the 1000 or so people
that are leaving both McMurdo and South Pole stations
over the next two weeks. On these sheets are their
travel requests and pertinent information about what
they will be doing once they leave the Ice. With each
flight, upwards of 130 people leave. This week is the
first big push, as over 200 people leave on Monday alone.
It will start feeling a bit roomier around here soon!

The Dome is Done

Built back in 1975, the Dome at the South Pole
finally came down this summer. It was no
longer needed since the new station has been
built. A whole crew dedicated just to this
project spent most of the summer dismantling
it.


After it was taken apart, it left a huge hole
in the "ground". I'm told that this hole is
being filled in. All of the surrounding snow
has built up over the years and was actually
at the same level as the base when it was built.


I was lucky enough to see the dome in person
twice. Once in 2007 and in 2009. Even half
buried in snow, it was still impressive. It's
too bad it couldn't (or wouldn't) be saved.

To The Pole

Today I was chosen to be a tour guide. Not just any tour guide, but
a tour guide to the South Pole! Leading 9 people, we hopped on a
LC-130 and off for a three hour trip to the bottom of the planet. As
far south as one can go. When I got there I got my obligatory "hero
shot", getting a good photo of me with the Geographical South Pole.
The candy-striped shot I stood with last time is Ceremonial Pole.
Although the Geographic Pole never moves (it's actually the station
that moves on the ice sheet) it is actually about 50 yards further
away than the last time I was here two years ago.


The nine people I was responsible for were chosen by the Chalet and I
was chosen as a guide because I had been to the Pole and knew it's
layout. I was very honored but had mixed emotions since it was such
a long travel day for a half hour on the ground. Imagine going to New
York or Paris on a three hour flight...then getting to spend a half hour
there. I also knew we were really busy at work and felt kind of guilty for
taking the time to go. However, I quickly got over that feeling!. We had
a set route we were supposed to follow and although we were cautioned
that we might only get to go to the Poles, I told the group that if they
hustled, they could go inside as well and go to the Post Office and get
their passports stamped. Everyone hustled, behaved themselves and
we got done just as the plane was making its last minute preparations for
take off.


The station's exterior had changed quite a bit since I was last here in
2007. All of the exterior siding is now installed. Previously it was still
in the plywood covering stage and looked like a big series of cargo
containers. I am however amazed at how much snow has piled up
around the station in the short time since it has been completed.
It's easily a 15 foot drop off from the edge of the snow to the door
at the bottom of the beer can (the cylindrical stairway at the end of
of the building). It's not that the building is sinking...it's that the
snow is rising. They've built in a lifting mechanism for the entire
building but apparently they haven't implemented it yet. Otherwise,
it's an impressive building that definitely stands out in a desolate,
empty place.


As I stated earlier, we got back to the plane in the nick of time. The herc
is definitely a unique plane. Although I wouldn't want to ride in one all
the time, they are effective in a number of different climates and locales.
The particular plane is called the "Pride of Scotia" and is operated by the
New York Air National Guard. As you can see, it's operated with skis
as it's primary landing gear instead of wheels. They can use wheels when
landing back in Christchurch but for the entire year on the Ice, they
remain unused, shuttling back and forth from Williams Field to the
South Pole on skis only.


Something new and fun for me was getting the chance to ride in the
cockpit. When I was getting back on the plane, one of the crew
members asked if I wanted to ride up front for takeoff. So I
strapped in and in a matter of moments, we were off! It was
hard to see anything because the Polar Plateau really is a big
empty area of nothing! Flat, white surface for nothing but hundreds
of miles in all directions. It was fun though to enjoy the sensation
of takeoff!


By the time I moved back to the cargo/passenger area, we were
starting to fly over the Trans Antarctic Mountains. This is a long
spine of mountains that runs across the continent and separates
East Antarctica from West Antarctica. I can't describe how beautiful
the scenery was from the air. I saw this great glacier ( and several
others just as impressive). It boggles the mind that most of these
areas have never seen a single human footprint and many geological
locations are simply unnamed. As beautiful as all of this is, it is
totally hostile to human life for long and I did a quick shudder
when I thought what it would be like to be stranded there. It gives
new meaning to the phrase "Not fit for man nor beast".


One of the favorite things I saw when flying back was this series of
six mountain tops. They look like islands, but what they really are
are the tops of mountains that have been almost completely
covered by ice and snow. Rather like islands, but islands in a sea
b of ice. I pictured this was what much of northern North
America looked like during the last Ice Age.

So after another three hour flight, we were back at Williams Field and
"home". I had a great time and was honored to be chosen to lead
others to have the same "first time" experience I had two years ago.
Someday, I would love to spend an extended period at the Pole. Maybe
a night. A summer? Maybe. A winter? Probably not. Whatever the
length of time, someday I plan to go back in some capacity. Maybe
Maybe more trips like this will be in my future.

The Big Roadtrip

You won't find this roadtrip in any Rand McNally Atlas.
There aren't any 7-11s along the road to stop for a
Big Gulp and bag of Fritos. It's the South Pole Traverse.
The group left McMurdo a couple of days after I got here in
late October and should be arriving in a few days at Pole.
This year they're hauling fuel and materials to both South
Pole and to the remote AGAP camps. Ultimately in years to
come, they want to be able to deliver up to 200,000 gallons
of fuel each year to the Pole but that will be years from
now. Currently, only LC-130's can carry fuel to the Pole
and they use up a lot of fuel in the process to get it
there. There's been some international angst against the
road, but let's get real here. It's not really "a road".
If it weren't maintained, it would be gone in only a few
years, it's existence gone forever. Plus, it's not like
tourists will be moseying along it. How could they? There
aren't any 7-11s along the way!


click on map to enlarge